USA - Utah to California
After the White Rim Road we quickly abandoned our original plan of riding towards the southwest from Moab via the Plateau Passage. For further approx. 2,000 km through the desert, at these temperatures and only every three days the opportunity to fill up with water - we really didn't feel like it. So we planned a new route in our small air-conditioned bungalow. It was supposed to take us via the Western Express and later via the Pony Express to Lake Tahoe in California. Because of the amount of rainfall it is also a route through the desert, but the Great Basin is a few 100 meters higher and is therefore significantly cooler.
To Hanksville we drove on a wide gravel road. When a dark thunderstorm built up in front of us, we decided to drive around it and followed the alternatives on the GPS..
We didn't really think about whether there could be a reason that the parallel road had the name "Sand Road", but we were quickly told otherwise. We sank deeper and deeper into the sand and driving was often no longer possible.
From a usually relaxed day stage, it took us two very exhausting days. We avoided the thunderstorm, but we still got wet feet while crossing the San Rafael River.
From Hanksville we went to Highway 24 towards west, we did a little research if there was something interesting to discover next to the road and Utah did not disappoint us.
On the one hand, we found the Bentonite Hills, the area does not even have an entry on the Google map and there was not even a sign when we turned onto the small gravel road. The colors of the different rock layers were incredible - we wanted to have a look from the air.
We saw a few white domes in the distance there and found out that the landscape is apparently so similar Mars that even long-term tests for future Mars missions are held here - we prefer to stay with our tent.
We had a day later already another incredible place to sleep. Of course, there was no signpost again, nor was it in any nature reserve. The moonover look lives up to its name, you really think you're on another planet. The colors of the rock change to an impressive spectacle, especially in the blue hour in the evening and in the golden hour in the morning.
Back to the highway, we past the Factory Butte.
In Capitol Reef National Park, Mormons have planted countless fruit trees in the past and we really liked the peaches - delicious! It still doesn’t lack on beautiful sleeping places.
In order to get a new rear tire for Michelle, we made a detour to the slightly larger town of Cedar City. In the nearby village of Parowan, we became aware of the many people on the street who marched towards the exit of the town. We joined the stream and landed at the fence of a rodeo arena. We were quite shocked when we saw how the horses' abdomen was clamped off so that they were jacked and like calves were torn to the ground with lasso or "manpower". The crowd from young to old was enthusiastic and the whole arena was raging - for us unimaginable to cheer on such animal cruelty.
We had a lot of respect for riding our bikes on the road next to trucks and had therefore we bought high-visibility vests in Moab. However, we could even have driven naked on the long section on Highway 21. It was deserted and empty, two cars per hour were already a lot. And the valleys in the Great Basin getting bigger and bigger.
One day we had strong crosswinds and were able to observe a Dust Devil in the distance. During our lunch break we played with the tumbleweed.
In one valley, there were suddenly countless wind turbines. As an old wind power expert Felix immediately shook his head:
"What's the nonsense here in the middle of the desert, even the next washing machine is 300 kilometers away."
If we don't even manage to move "the few meters of power cables" from the offshore parks on the coast to Bavaria in the south of Germany, then the chilled out Americans can’t do that neither.
We thought and studied the map, then it dawned on us: "AREA 51"!
We had meanwhile arrived in Nevada and the secret military base was only a few valleys south of us. The large amount of electricity is certainly needed for the sustainable electric UFO's of the aliens landed there.
A few days and countless summits and valleys later we reach Ely, a small town with many hotels, casinos and restaurants. The reason for this is that Ely is a one day trip to the next larger city and many travelers stop here. We can also use a shower and rent in the once tallest building (6 floors) of Nevada - the Hotel Nevada.
When we leave the city the next morning, we are already looking for protection from a heavy rain shower at the end of the town. We flee to the disused train station in a hall, where we meet several pensioners who are trying to get over 100-year-old steam locomotives fit again. The whole hall was like a small museum and everywhere stood old relics from the time when copper was still mined in the region. We spent the whole day there and learned a lot.
Then we went to the Pony Express. In 1845, the transmission of any news from the east coast near New York to the west coast in California still took an unimaginable 6 months. A faster transmission was needed and thus the Pony Express was launched. A " Riding Trail" with over 190 stations, where riders are packed with letters and changed approx. every 22 kilometers to a fresh horse in order to transport the mail in the fastest way, day and night. A message, such as which president was elected in the country, could now reach the west coast within 7 days. A letter cost $5 at that time. The Pony Express was replaced in 1861 by the completion of the telegraph line. Signs pointed to many wild horses in the region and we actually saw some of the shy, not burnt market animals.
One day on the very stony ground of the Pony Express, Michelle thought it was a good idea to deal with the final boss there. It was no conventional stone as it was sharp all around - it maybe was a meteorite. It was a sound like on New Year's Eve when the stone cut the edge of the tire. We were able to patch the tire and saved ourselves 40 km to the next small village. It was no longer possible to continue. When Felix tried to hitchhike the 300 km to the next bike shop on the road, a couple with mountain bikes on their van stopped. Because they were on their way home from their vacation, we quickly got a tire from one of their bikes - we were incredibly grateful for this helpfulness.
Many of the old Pony Express Stations can no longer be found today or only barracks can be seen.
However, the Middlegate station on Highway 50 is still preserved. Today it is a rest stop where many bikers and travelers stop and immortalize themselves with a dollar bill on the ceiling.
Other highlights on the way west were the Sand Mountain, a wind singing dune.
As well as the Naval Air Station, one of the filming locations of Top Gun. Here jet hunters and combat helicopters start every couple minute and draw loud loops - In our playlist, of course, "Danger Zone" by Kenny Loggins ran all day.
Now it’s time to enter California – „here we come“!